Lucky day 13 brings us a wolf.
It was almost a Friday – but not sure how much good or bad luck you can have all at once! Maybe you can – as there was a small rip in my sleeping bag. Thankfully duct tape fixes pretty much everything.
We left Healy Pass trailhead at the base of Sunshine at 9:30 a.m. and ready for a 18 km hike which would take us about 5 hours through beautiful alpine meadows, forest, and a panoramic view of the mountains! I think I may have to buy some crampons to get closer to those snow covered peaks.
We toted our pack with raingear and safety essentials: bear bangers, flares, pocketknife, hatchet, bear spray, and first aid kit. It’s a gradual climb through the forest on great quality trail. At about the 2 ½ hour mark we walked into the beautiful open alpine meadows with so many different colour flowers and a trickling stream. We stopped and had a picnic and watched the gofers prance around trying to dodge the major hawks and falcons that were circling overhead.
We continued our gradual climb to the crest of the pass. Just as we got to the turn for the last few minutes of the climb – 100ft away I’m faced with a black figure. I stopped abruptly thinking it was a fox. However, this “fox” was much bigger with a thick black coat and piercing yellow eyes. The wolf and I sized each other up while I hissed to Pete “wolf!” The wolf stayed perfectly still – and looked well-fed enough and non-crouched that I didn’t think he would pounce or run toward us. We slowly kept walking up the hill checking over our shoulder to see if he was deciding we were worth chasing.
We finally crested the top and only then after about 5 minutes did the wolf move and began to trot along the countryside off the main trail.
I wish I had a photo of what I saw in that initial moment. It was absolutely stunning and oddly enough I didn’t feel afraid. It was like we were both transfixed trying to figure out the other.
At the top we met a few hikers from Quebec that were working in the Lake Louise area. We decided we’d all hike down together just in case the wolf got his friends – although we’re pretty sure he was alone and had lost interest in us.
On our decent we saw a marmot who also felt the wolf’s presence and persistently let out shrill chirps. I had my bear banger locked and loaded in my pocket just in case. As we headed down the last 30 minutes it began to rain – we dawned our raingear and made and easy walk back to the car and were relieved to stretch and not have had any larger wildlife encounters.
We enjoyed the rest of the day by heading back to our favorite watering hole in Banff – the Elk & Oarsman. Afterwards, we eased our weary bones by taking in the hot springs and enjoying the surprise rainbow across the mountains from the pool view.
Maybe the 13th is lucky after all!
It was almost a Friday – but not sure how much good or bad luck you can have all at once! Maybe you can – as there was a small rip in my sleeping bag. Thankfully duct tape fixes pretty much everything.
We left Healy Pass trailhead at the base of Sunshine at 9:30 a.m. and ready for a 18 km hike which would take us about 5 hours through beautiful alpine meadows, forest, and a panoramic view of the mountains! I think I may have to buy some crampons to get closer to those snow covered peaks.
We toted our pack with raingear and safety essentials: bear bangers, flares, pocketknife, hatchet, bear spray, and first aid kit. It’s a gradual climb through the forest on great quality trail. At about the 2 ½ hour mark we walked into the beautiful open alpine meadows with so many different colour flowers and a trickling stream. We stopped and had a picnic and watched the gofers prance around trying to dodge the major hawks and falcons that were circling overhead.
We continued our gradual climb to the crest of the pass. Just as we got to the turn for the last few minutes of the climb – 100ft away I’m faced with a black figure. I stopped abruptly thinking it was a fox. However, this “fox” was much bigger with a thick black coat and piercing yellow eyes. The wolf and I sized each other up while I hissed to Pete “wolf!” The wolf stayed perfectly still – and looked well-fed enough and non-crouched that I didn’t think he would pounce or run toward us. We slowly kept walking up the hill checking over our shoulder to see if he was deciding we were worth chasing.
We finally crested the top and only then after about 5 minutes did the wolf move and began to trot along the countryside off the main trail.
I wish I had a photo of what I saw in that initial moment. It was absolutely stunning and oddly enough I didn’t feel afraid. It was like we were both transfixed trying to figure out the other.
At the top we met a few hikers from Quebec that were working in the Lake Louise area. We decided we’d all hike down together just in case the wolf got his friends – although we’re pretty sure he was alone and had lost interest in us.
On our decent we saw a marmot who also felt the wolf’s presence and persistently let out shrill chirps. I had my bear banger locked and loaded in my pocket just in case. As we headed down the last 30 minutes it began to rain – we dawned our raingear and made and easy walk back to the car and were relieved to stretch and not have had any larger wildlife encounters.
We enjoyed the rest of the day by heading back to our favorite watering hole in Banff – the Elk & Oarsman. Afterwards, we eased our weary bones by taking in the hot springs and enjoying the surprise rainbow across the mountains from the pool view.
Maybe the 13th is lucky after all!
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Day 12 - Destination: Banff, AB 08/11/2011
Chez Megs – we had trouble leaving. We were served fresh coffee, bacon, French toast, blackberries, juice . . . it almost made us reconsider leaving and heading back to our tent – almost!
After a delicious breakfast and further spoiling we headed to the beast of burden – our car – and found a surprise. Yup, those magpies were not attacking the car – they were cleaning our grill. After travelling through butterfly and wasp country there was a buffet there that they gladly took care of.
On the road again – we enjoyed a lunch break in Canmore and check into our Tunnel Mountain campsite. We had some very cooperative neighbours. I actually almost bumped into them as I was on my way to the bathroom to brush my teeth, a very large elk. After being startled – I gave him a wide berth and then he proceeded to find a patch of long grass to lie down in and bring a friend along next door to our site. I took some close-ups on my digital SLR and it will take a bit to upload them so I’ll post an animal photo segment to keep you up to date on all the wildlife we’ve seen so far!
We trekked up Tunnel Mountain Hike and got caught in thunder and lightening near the top – we snapped a few photos and videos and hurried down. We recovered in The Elk & Oarsman and enjoyed elk nacho
Tomorrow – the plan is to get up early and hike Healey’s Pass which starts at the base of Sunshine. Alpine meadows here we come!
After a delicious breakfast and further spoiling we headed to the beast of burden – our car – and found a surprise. Yup, those magpies were not attacking the car – they were cleaning our grill. After travelling through butterfly and wasp country there was a buffet there that they gladly took care of.
On the road again – we enjoyed a lunch break in Canmore and check into our Tunnel Mountain campsite. We had some very cooperative neighbours. I actually almost bumped into them as I was on my way to the bathroom to brush my teeth, a very large elk. After being startled – I gave him a wide berth and then he proceeded to find a patch of long grass to lie down in and bring a friend along next door to our site. I took some close-ups on my digital SLR and it will take a bit to upload them so I’ll post an animal photo segment to keep you up to date on all the wildlife we’ve seen so far!
We trekked up Tunnel Mountain Hike and got caught in thunder and lightening near the top – we snapped a few photos and videos and hurried down. We recovered in The Elk & Oarsman and enjoyed elk nacho
Tomorrow – the plan is to get up early and hike Healey’s Pass which starts at the base of Sunshine. Alpine meadows here we come!
Dinosaurs!
We left Gull Lake and went into the land of hoodoos, fossils, and undiscovered treasure. Drumheller! Flashback to my kindergarten days where I plunked myself in front of the television and watched hours of National Geographic and wished I could be an archeologist and excavate mummies and dinosaurs. Being allergic to dust didn’t phase my ambition. That’s right, despite the peer pressure to say in my kindergarten graduation video that I wanted to be a fashion designer – my true wish was to be an archeologist.
So, for just a few exciting hours, I pretended that I was travelling to the Jurassic and bounded into the Royal Tyrrell Museum pulling Pete behind me.
Amazing.
Not only did they have crazy displays of so many intact skeletons – but there were so many rooms of entertaining information; I was mesmerized. I know I am fully geeking out – but every boy who is reading this knows you has also felt this dizzying passion of learning about dinosaurs – even if you were 5 years old.
They had a real archeologist working on a fossil – and there was a huge workshop where the heavy hitters got out their microbrushes and chisels. Beautiful.
A few fave dinosaurs: t-rex, archaeopteryx, stegosaurus, diplodocus, triceratops,
and of course, the allosaurus (we practically have the same name).
After strolling in the 34 degree heat in the badlands – and thinking about heat stroke – we sped toward Calgary to Chez Megs. Not before the GPS had a complete meltdown in downtown city core in rush hour – only fueling Pete’s adamant belief that you can never trust the GPS. After much hand waving and choice words we found our way to our beautiful oasis for the evening.
We’ve been in tent since we left Montreal – and the thought of sleeping indoors seems pretty great. We are met with hugs in Calgary. Chez Megs included a personalized greeting basket in our room! Complete with individual soaps, shampoos, laundry money (which I did pay you back! Ha!), fuzzy peaches, sweethearts, and delightful goodies.
After cleaning our clothes in such high tech devices that are more complex than a sink, we were fed a homemade meal. Tomorrow will be exciting – no flip flops will be necessary for the shower!
We left Gull Lake and went into the land of hoodoos, fossils, and undiscovered treasure. Drumheller! Flashback to my kindergarten days where I plunked myself in front of the television and watched hours of National Geographic and wished I could be an archeologist and excavate mummies and dinosaurs. Being allergic to dust didn’t phase my ambition. That’s right, despite the peer pressure to say in my kindergarten graduation video that I wanted to be a fashion designer – my true wish was to be an archeologist.
So, for just a few exciting hours, I pretended that I was travelling to the Jurassic and bounded into the Royal Tyrrell Museum pulling Pete behind me.
Amazing.
Not only did they have crazy displays of so many intact skeletons – but there were so many rooms of entertaining information; I was mesmerized. I know I am fully geeking out – but every boy who is reading this knows you has also felt this dizzying passion of learning about dinosaurs – even if you were 5 years old.
They had a real archeologist working on a fossil – and there was a huge workshop where the heavy hitters got out their microbrushes and chisels. Beautiful.
A few fave dinosaurs: t-rex, archaeopteryx, stegosaurus, diplodocus, triceratops,
and of course, the allosaurus (we practically have the same name).
After strolling in the 34 degree heat in the badlands – and thinking about heat stroke – we sped toward Calgary to Chez Megs. Not before the GPS had a complete meltdown in downtown city core in rush hour – only fueling Pete’s adamant belief that you can never trust the GPS. After much hand waving and choice words we found our way to our beautiful oasis for the evening.
We’ve been in tent since we left Montreal – and the thought of sleeping indoors seems pretty great. We are met with hugs in Calgary. Chez Megs included a personalized greeting basket in our room! Complete with individual soaps, shampoos, laundry money (which I did pay you back! Ha!), fuzzy peaches, sweethearts, and delightful goodies.
After cleaning our clothes in such high tech devices that are more complex than a sink, we were fed a homemade meal. Tomorrow will be exciting – no flip flops will be necessary for the shower!
Let’s set one thing straight. I’m not making these names up. I do think that subconsciously a couple of Newfies are staying in places that may remind of them of a home far, far, away.
We do arrive in Regina to get our windshield replaced. This will take 4+ hours to complete. What do you do in Regina when you have hours to kill?
1. Find the best Irish pub in down and drink Guinness and cider with delicious fish n’ chips.
2. Update your blog.
3. Watch the frequent downpours and raging wind from a pub window.
4. Walk around downtown and see what’s trending: mohawks, leather jackets, and bathroom
graffiti.
5. Walk around the mall with a giant backpack on to get looks from serious shoppers.
6. Find a bonus Tilley store and buy a year’s supply of underwear and socks for Pete (1 pair of
underwear, 3 pairs of socks).
7. Find a coffee shop and catch up on CBC/BBC news and your blog.
8. Don’t go to the casino.
9. Call loved ones to reaffirm that we are having fun and are safe.
10. Research provincial parks for the rest of the journey.
Enjoyed great views of the fields and sky. People don’t give Saskatchewan enough credit. It’s really beautiful.
Since the waiting time seriously changed our projected driving time goals for the day. We settled on staying at a little municipal campsite on the edge of Gull Lake. For a whopping $10 you get a nice patch of grass, fire pit, picnic table, clean bathrooms, and showers. Not too bad.
Tomorrow we head to Alberta and hope to check out some dinosaurs and crawl out of our tent vestibule to spend a night with a friend and do laundry!
We do arrive in Regina to get our windshield replaced. This will take 4+ hours to complete. What do you do in Regina when you have hours to kill?
1. Find the best Irish pub in down and drink Guinness and cider with delicious fish n’ chips.
2. Update your blog.
3. Watch the frequent downpours and raging wind from a pub window.
4. Walk around downtown and see what’s trending: mohawks, leather jackets, and bathroom
graffiti.
5. Walk around the mall with a giant backpack on to get looks from serious shoppers.
6. Find a bonus Tilley store and buy a year’s supply of underwear and socks for Pete (1 pair of
underwear, 3 pairs of socks).
7. Find a coffee shop and catch up on CBC/BBC news and your blog.
8. Don’t go to the casino.
9. Call loved ones to reaffirm that we are having fun and are safe.
10. Research provincial parks for the rest of the journey.
Enjoyed great views of the fields and sky. People don’t give Saskatchewan enough credit. It’s really beautiful.
Since the waiting time seriously changed our projected driving time goals for the day. We settled on staying at a little municipal campsite on the edge of Gull Lake. For a whopping $10 you get a nice patch of grass, fire pit, picnic table, clean bathrooms, and showers. Not too bad.
Tomorrow we head to Alberta and hope to check out some dinosaurs and crawl out of our tent vestibule to spend a night with a friend and do laundry!
Along our bison route, we headed into the latitudinal centre of Canada – Winnipeg! Winnipeg is a great city and is really pretty downtown. I’m not sure how pretty it seems when it’s frigid cold in the winter, but, in the summer it’s worth a visit.
We went to what may possibly be the best Goodlife I’ve ever been. The 24-hour one is HUGE and the locker rooms are more like a spa than a gym. After a much-needed workout and stretch, we headed out to pick up the speed and head into Saskatchewan before sundown. Lots of trucks, lots of tractors, and lots of livestock around.
We decided to spend the night at Moose Mountain Provincial Park. If you like "ripe" earth smell - this is the park for you. After getting settled and enjoying yet another beautiful sunset big sky land has to offer – we had an early night.
Early morning, we get up knowing we need to make to Regina so we can get our splintering windshield replaced. But, before we make it there – an adventure greets us first thing in the morning delaying our departure. I get lost.
Now, let’s get something straight. When hiking I’m an excellent follower. There’s not always room for multiple people leading at the head of a trail – and so I gladly follow and enjoy the scenery and not worry about specific navigational skills. In other words, I am directionally disadvantaged . . . and can get lost at a large campsite or park.
As Pete and I stumbled toward the shower building to get cleaned up and on the road, we agree to meet back at the campsite since I will inevitably take longer getting ready. But there was a problem. I was still within my 20-minute time frame of waking up. For those of you who know me – there is a period of time where my brain is still in REM while I seem like I’m fully awake, functioning, and interacting with people around. I'm very Convincing.
This places my real wake up time around when I get out of the shower. Again – I usually pay attention to close detail and am a active participant in my hiking, camping, and exploring. However, I found myself not knowing my campsite number or the trail from which we had come from.
I’m lost.
No worries – I’ll just retrace my steps to the general direction of where I think our campsite is. Take this process multiply it by 3 ½ tries and it gives you 35 minutes of me getting more frustrated and hungry all while toting my shower bag and towel (don’t worry I’m fully dressed and ready for the day – if not I wouldn’t be here writing you this!) while aimlessly walking through a few hundred campsites.
I think like the lost kid at the mall. If I just stay put at the shower station – Pete will come find me when he realizes my breakfast he has so diligently made me is getting cold. Will I let him get the satisfaction of finding me sitting like a toddler? Of course not. I continue on my journey for the final time and see a few familiar landmarks. Finally, the awful outhouses I remember – and then I round a turn and shuffle into our campsite.
The car is gone.
I see my lonely egg and coffee sitting at the picnic table and I know that my brave husband has realized what has happened and gone to find me. I don’t have a cell phone on me.
I sit. I eat. I wait.
Five minutes later Pete swerves into the campsite. We exchange a knowing look, a hug, and continue enjoying our breakfast. I’m a bit of a handful I know.
We went to what may possibly be the best Goodlife I’ve ever been. The 24-hour one is HUGE and the locker rooms are more like a spa than a gym. After a much-needed workout and stretch, we headed out to pick up the speed and head into Saskatchewan before sundown. Lots of trucks, lots of tractors, and lots of livestock around.
We decided to spend the night at Moose Mountain Provincial Park. If you like "ripe" earth smell - this is the park for you. After getting settled and enjoying yet another beautiful sunset big sky land has to offer – we had an early night.
Early morning, we get up knowing we need to make to Regina so we can get our splintering windshield replaced. But, before we make it there – an adventure greets us first thing in the morning delaying our departure. I get lost.
Now, let’s get something straight. When hiking I’m an excellent follower. There’s not always room for multiple people leading at the head of a trail – and so I gladly follow and enjoy the scenery and not worry about specific navigational skills. In other words, I am directionally disadvantaged . . . and can get lost at a large campsite or park.
As Pete and I stumbled toward the shower building to get cleaned up and on the road, we agree to meet back at the campsite since I will inevitably take longer getting ready. But there was a problem. I was still within my 20-minute time frame of waking up. For those of you who know me – there is a period of time where my brain is still in REM while I seem like I’m fully awake, functioning, and interacting with people around. I'm very Convincing.
This places my real wake up time around when I get out of the shower. Again – I usually pay attention to close detail and am a active participant in my hiking, camping, and exploring. However, I found myself not knowing my campsite number or the trail from which we had come from.
I’m lost.
No worries – I’ll just retrace my steps to the general direction of where I think our campsite is. Take this process multiply it by 3 ½ tries and it gives you 35 minutes of me getting more frustrated and hungry all while toting my shower bag and towel (don’t worry I’m fully dressed and ready for the day – if not I wouldn’t be here writing you this!) while aimlessly walking through a few hundred campsites.
I think like the lost kid at the mall. If I just stay put at the shower station – Pete will come find me when he realizes my breakfast he has so diligently made me is getting cold. Will I let him get the satisfaction of finding me sitting like a toddler? Of course not. I continue on my journey for the final time and see a few familiar landmarks. Finally, the awful outhouses I remember – and then I round a turn and shuffle into our campsite.
The car is gone.
I see my lonely egg and coffee sitting at the picnic table and I know that my brave husband has realized what has happened and gone to find me. I don’t have a cell phone on me.
I sit. I eat. I wait.
Five minutes later Pete swerves into the campsite. We exchange a knowing look, a hug, and continue enjoying our breakfast. I’m a bit of a handful I know.
Trending now in... 08/08/2011
Quebec:
1. Excessive driving speeds
2. Smoking
3. High end fashion
4. Bikes (Bixi in Montreal)
1. Excessive driving speeds
2. Smoking
3. High end fashion
4. Bikes (Bixi in Montreal)
Northern Ontario:
1. Highway ᐃᓄᒃᓱᐃᑦ or inuksuit (plural form of inukshuk)
2. Chip vans
3. Birds of prey
4. Transport Trucks
(Photo Credit: http://images.placesonline.com/photos/13118_vernon_inukshuk_inuit_rock_figure.jpg)
1. Highway ᐃᓄᒃᓱᐃᑦ or inuksuit (plural form of inukshuk)
2. Chip vans
3. Birds of prey
4. Transport Trucks
(Photo Credit: http://images.placesonline.com/photos/13118_vernon_inukshuk_inuit_rock_figure.jpg)
Manitoba:
1. Bison
2. Butterflies
3. Closed establishments
4. Packed camping grounds
(Photo Credit: http://www.outblush.com/women/home/art-decor/i-tent-camping-vintage-sign/)
1. Bison
2. Butterflies
3. Closed establishments
4. Packed camping grounds
(Photo Credit: http://www.outblush.com/women/home/art-decor/i-tent-camping-vintage-sign/)
Saskatchewan:
1. Bales of Hay
2. Big Sky
3. Stinky outhouses
4. O'Hanlon's Irish Pub
1. Bales of Hay
2. Big Sky
3. Stinky outhouses
4. O'Hanlon's Irish Pub
We just couldn’t spend another night in Northern Ontario.
The last night was beautiful. We woke up to a barrage of flashing – it must have been a meteor shower! It lit up the sky for about five minutes – or at least what we saw in our groggy state. I did see what looked like a shooting star from our side door/window of the tent. If it hadn’t been 4 am I probably would have jumped out to see what was going on. However, I was so cozy in my down bag – and not wanting to bump into any night visitors (raccoons?) that I stayed put.
Despite our overall good experience, after three nights and the realization of how much barren road lay ahead, we just had to get out.
But not before we realized that Ontario truck drivers are bullies. They throw rocks; the kind of rocks that hit your windshield and smash a piece out of it. After our seven stages of grief – we realized there’s nothing we can do until we get to a bigger centre after the weekend and hopefully seal it up without replacing a windshield right away.
We sped along to make it just make it past the Manitoba border after a 12 hour day and approximately 900+ km. We did include a few picnic stops – of which you will see in the pictures below that Pete is a magician when it comes to washing dishes with a Tbsp of water and a spoon.
We headed toward our refuge Falcon Beach.
Closed.
It’s night. We’re tired. Our park is closed. It’s barred up so we can’t even sneak in!
We check a neighbouring park called White Shell.
Full.
Seriously?
We decide that it’s best to just go back to the Manitoba visitors' centre to ask where would be a good park that’s close by and has space. Of course, it’s closed too.
At this point we’re getting desperate. There’s no way we can drive any more. We’re exhausted. We see a very clear "no camping" sign that we choose to ignore.
We began to set up our tent on a patch of grass behind our car in hopes that we don’t get kicked out, fined, or worse – sent back to Ontario. We make an executive decision to sleep in the tent and get up early before the centre opens for business.
Despite our earplugs, it was a toss-n-turn kind of night being so close to the buzz highway. We get up 6 am to go in search for a picnic table at one of those parks that are full.
We get there 6:30 am and of course nothing is open. Not even the gas station. This is beginning to be a trend for Manitoba. We decide to cook up our own breakfast anyway and realize we need water. I found a lonely hose tap tucked around the back of a shed that was attached to the kitchen of a building. It must be safe to drink. The only other option was for Pete to run up to the sprinklers on the lawn to try and capture as much water in his waterbottle as possible. Although we both looked at each other like – this could work – I thought I better try and find an alternative solution to ensure my coffee would be served promptly. Thankfully the water was just fine.
Today it’s off to find a Goodlife in Winnipeg, Manitoba and then see if we can make it to Saskatchewan by nightfall. Wish us luck!
Day 7: Pukaskwa National Park, Ontario 08/07/2011
Week 1 Update: Total of roughly 2660 km!
Can You Hear Me Now?
We’re back in the land of cell and 3G service. It’s hard to believe that we’ve travelled this far already – and still have so much to go! It’s a big country. It’s a big Ontario – and it’s not that terrible after all! We’ve obviously taken our time getting across this province over three cozy nights in our tent.
There are some funny place names that we’ve come across so far in our travels through Ontario. Baby Lake was followed by Mom Lake and Dad Lake. I especially wanted to stop at Pancake Bay since I had camping pancakes that I hadn’t cooked. Unfortunately, it wasn’t near lunchtime, we weren’t hungry, and had just worked very hard to pass five transport trucks and did not want to lose our progress! For those of you who went across NL with me a couple summers ago – the same speed limits apply – 90 km/h really means 109.
Night Danger:
Road signs are quirky. We’ve seen the transition of Newfie moose sign, to NS deer, to caribou, to prancing deer, to charging moose all identifying dangers of travel. The best though is the sign that states “NIGHT DANGER” with the picture of the charging moose – maybe it’s because I grew up in Newfoundland and have an appreciation that large game are road danger in general – but I guess here in the O.P.P. district it's a serious hazard. And yes, that is seriously the Ontario Provincial Police’s acronym – I’ve been rapping that tune non-stop as we're driving on and on ... which I'm sure Pete is thankful for!
We drove through some really fun and twisty scenic roads along Lake Superior park. For a picnic break – we pulled off and enjoyed some fresh peaches, hummus, bread, and grapes in the 30 degree scorching day. We followed a little path under the highway bridge, which brought us to an ideal wading pool. I promptly flipped off my sandals and began walking through to cool down. It was probably only waist deep in the deepest section – but I stayed at shin deep since I didn’t know the area, where the river was coming from, or what was in there. Pete followed me in and after a few minutes he let out a quick, “what was that?!”
Down by our feet there seemed to be a legion of leeches inching there way toward our naked and tasty feet. These were not your little dime size suckers. They spanned the length of your outstretched hand. We scurried out of the sinking sand quick. Even on the shore, they still inched their way into old footprints. *shudder*
We quickly checked each other for any stowaways – and were happy to find none.
At the end of our day’s short drive (395 km in 5 ½ hours), we drove by the Anishinaabe reserve which led us to Pukaskwa National Park. It’s right along the coast of Lake Superior and has some great forests and water access. Although we were ambitious to check out some trails this afternoon, we sprawled out in the afternoon sun like a couple of lions in the tent to recharge. As far as National Parks go - it's not going to make any awards any time soon.
Maybe tomorrow morning before we head out, we’ll get a look at a trail. We know for sure that we won’t be heading toward the Coastal Hiking Trail as it is closed to multiple bear sightings. Thankfully it is a long way from our campsite – although it has me looking very closely at the amount of berries that surround our site. Maybe I’ll get Pete to mark his territory around our tent just in case…
Can You Hear Me Now?
We’re back in the land of cell and 3G service. It’s hard to believe that we’ve travelled this far already – and still have so much to go! It’s a big country. It’s a big Ontario – and it’s not that terrible after all! We’ve obviously taken our time getting across this province over three cozy nights in our tent.
There are some funny place names that we’ve come across so far in our travels through Ontario. Baby Lake was followed by Mom Lake and Dad Lake. I especially wanted to stop at Pancake Bay since I had camping pancakes that I hadn’t cooked. Unfortunately, it wasn’t near lunchtime, we weren’t hungry, and had just worked very hard to pass five transport trucks and did not want to lose our progress! For those of you who went across NL with me a couple summers ago – the same speed limits apply – 90 km/h really means 109.
Night Danger:
Road signs are quirky. We’ve seen the transition of Newfie moose sign, to NS deer, to caribou, to prancing deer, to charging moose all identifying dangers of travel. The best though is the sign that states “NIGHT DANGER” with the picture of the charging moose – maybe it’s because I grew up in Newfoundland and have an appreciation that large game are road danger in general – but I guess here in the O.P.P. district it's a serious hazard. And yes, that is seriously the Ontario Provincial Police’s acronym – I’ve been rapping that tune non-stop as we're driving on and on ... which I'm sure Pete is thankful for!
We drove through some really fun and twisty scenic roads along Lake Superior park. For a picnic break – we pulled off and enjoyed some fresh peaches, hummus, bread, and grapes in the 30 degree scorching day. We followed a little path under the highway bridge, which brought us to an ideal wading pool. I promptly flipped off my sandals and began walking through to cool down. It was probably only waist deep in the deepest section – but I stayed at shin deep since I didn’t know the area, where the river was coming from, or what was in there. Pete followed me in and after a few minutes he let out a quick, “what was that?!”
Down by our feet there seemed to be a legion of leeches inching there way toward our naked and tasty feet. These were not your little dime size suckers. They spanned the length of your outstretched hand. We scurried out of the sinking sand quick. Even on the shore, they still inched their way into old footprints. *shudder*
We quickly checked each other for any stowaways – and were happy to find none.
At the end of our day’s short drive (395 km in 5 ½ hours), we drove by the Anishinaabe reserve which led us to Pukaskwa National Park. It’s right along the coast of Lake Superior and has some great forests and water access. Although we were ambitious to check out some trails this afternoon, we sprawled out in the afternoon sun like a couple of lions in the tent to recharge. As far as National Parks go - it's not going to make any awards any time soon.
Maybe tomorrow morning before we head out, we’ll get a look at a trail. We know for sure that we won’t be heading toward the Coastal Hiking Trail as it is closed to multiple bear sightings. Thankfully it is a long way from our campsite – although it has me looking very closely at the amount of berries that surround our site. Maybe I’ll get Pete to mark his territory around our tent just in case…
p.s. Because it took us a couple days to get out of Ontario and access signal - the next couple days will be posted not completely "real time". Our apologies - blame Ontario's wilderness!
We've spent the last couple days working our way out of Quebec and into Ontario. On the last morning of Montreal, we popped into a great bakery to get a sour dough loaf, some croissants, and petit chocolate pain.
Pointers for Croissants dans l’auto:
1. Drape your legs with a towel to cover any possible buttery flakey goodness of the croissant from getting lost in your seat, pants, etc.
2. Do not tear the croissant into pieces as your hands will get excessively greasy while you try to grip the wheel and change gears all while in Montreal rush our traffic while you are leaving the city.
3. Promptly bite the croissant and limit your eye-rolling glee to a minimum as you need to keep your eyes on the road and not get lost in bliss.
Pointers for Croissants dans l’auto:
1. Drape your legs with a towel to cover any possible buttery flakey goodness of the croissant from getting lost in your seat, pants, etc.
2. Do not tear the croissant into pieces as your hands will get excessively greasy while you try to grip the wheel and change gears all while in Montreal rush our traffic while you are leaving the city.
3. Promptly bite the croissant and limit your eye-rolling glee to a minimum as you need to keep your eyes on the road and not get lost in bliss.
As we left Montreal, we had another beautiful day of driving and headed out to Driftwood Provincial Park in Ontario. It was such a beautiful day that upon landing we put up our tents and jumped in for a mid-afternoon swim in the Ottawa River. Pristine.
After supper, we took a little trip around some of the hiking trails which were heavily wooded and had hip deep ferns. After an hour of that – we came to a clearing of widely spaced trees and soft pine needled trail. We jogged out for the last leg of the trail and it was amazing. As one of my first “trail run” experiences it was fantastic as my lungs didn’t implode – and the soft earth was kind to my limbs after being cooped up in the car. We went dove directly back into the lake for a sunset swim and headed to bed early.
Always remember to put your bins/cooler away! Always!
Being distracted by our urban travel and into the most amazing campground ever – we fell asleep with our bin system of food in the mesh tent. Nothing was left out in the open. We were only a little stupid.
Around 2 a.m. Pete and I awake to a LOUD flapping. Initially I thought it was a porcupine or bear (eek!) trying to get in the other tent. However, as Pete braved the wilderness with his headlamp – he was greeted by a steely stare underneath the picnic table that was inside our larger tent. There “owling” (or perched) sat a very rotund raccoon with his greasy paws deep into sea salt and cracked pepper peanuts. That is of course AFTER he had pried open a bin with his little digits and ate the remainder of a loaf of bread scattering crumbs everywhere.
With some rough shaking of the tent, the raccoon huffed his way out slowly and left our goodies alone. Thankfully, he didn’t get into anything “valuable” like breakfast or gear.
From Driftwood Provincial Park we trekked a long day in car toward Sault Saint Marie. It was 35 degrees upon our arrival of the 7+ hour day on the road. We immediately headed to the Goodlife and reminded our bodies that it’s good to move! After a much needed workout we checked in our campsite and are having an early night!
After supper, we took a little trip around some of the hiking trails which were heavily wooded and had hip deep ferns. After an hour of that – we came to a clearing of widely spaced trees and soft pine needled trail. We jogged out for the last leg of the trail and it was amazing. As one of my first “trail run” experiences it was fantastic as my lungs didn’t implode – and the soft earth was kind to my limbs after being cooped up in the car. We went dove directly back into the lake for a sunset swim and headed to bed early.
Always remember to put your bins/cooler away! Always!
Being distracted by our urban travel and into the most amazing campground ever – we fell asleep with our bin system of food in the mesh tent. Nothing was left out in the open. We were only a little stupid.
Around 2 a.m. Pete and I awake to a LOUD flapping. Initially I thought it was a porcupine or bear (eek!) trying to get in the other tent. However, as Pete braved the wilderness with his headlamp – he was greeted by a steely stare underneath the picnic table that was inside our larger tent. There “owling” (or perched) sat a very rotund raccoon with his greasy paws deep into sea salt and cracked pepper peanuts. That is of course AFTER he had pried open a bin with his little digits and ate the remainder of a loaf of bread scattering crumbs everywhere.
With some rough shaking of the tent, the raccoon huffed his way out slowly and left our goodies alone. Thankfully, he didn’t get into anything “valuable” like breakfast or gear.
From Driftwood Provincial Park we trekked a long day in car toward Sault Saint Marie. It was 35 degrees upon our arrival of the 7+ hour day on the road. We immediately headed to the Goodlife and reminded our bodies that it’s good to move! After a much needed workout we checked in our campsite and are having an early night!
** Pete's Personal Ramblings **
Java is Good:
There are few things I enjoy more than coffee. Espresso and French press are my preferred methods of caffination. Please see coffeegeek.com or coffeecrew.com. So, on move day I decided to pick up some of my favorite bean – Kenyan AA. This light roast got me through much of 2006-8. Much to my horror said bean was no longer carried at Java Blend in Halifax. This was not good; at this point I could handle few more changes in my life. I had <30mins to get ground coffee beans and get back to the house before the movers left.
I asked for recommendations from the staff and some young pup suggested I try the Burgundi. He wanted me to just buy the beans and be done with it. I politely declined and sampled the bean in a press pot – my preferred travel style coffee. Next I sampled the Etiopanian Guji. Both were excellent beans. For a moment there I feared the worse, drinking instant coffee at a campsite in northern Ontario surrounded by flies, still wet and cold from the night before and staring down the barrel of another 10 hr day.
Two pounds ground for a French press please.
There are few things I enjoy more than coffee. Espresso and French press are my preferred methods of caffination. Please see coffeegeek.com or coffeecrew.com. So, on move day I decided to pick up some of my favorite bean – Kenyan AA. This light roast got me through much of 2006-8. Much to my horror said bean was no longer carried at Java Blend in Halifax. This was not good; at this point I could handle few more changes in my life. I had <30mins to get ground coffee beans and get back to the house before the movers left.
I asked for recommendations from the staff and some young pup suggested I try the Burgundi. He wanted me to just buy the beans and be done with it. I politely declined and sampled the bean in a press pot – my preferred travel style coffee. Next I sampled the Etiopanian Guji. Both were excellent beans. For a moment there I feared the worse, drinking instant coffee at a campsite in northern Ontario surrounded by flies, still wet and cold from the night before and staring down the barrel of another 10 hr day.
Two pounds ground for a French press please.
Metal and Flesh Dodge Ball:
Something is different about Montreal. People are either fearless, stupid, or don’t care, maybe a combination of all three. I’m glad there is a “no right turn on a red” rule on the island of chaos. It protects the pedestrians from themselves and the drivers from charges of manslaughter.
Something is different about Montreal. People are either fearless, stupid, or don’t care, maybe a combination of all three. I’m glad there is a “no right turn on a red” rule on the island of chaos. It protects the pedestrians from themselves and the drivers from charges of manslaughter.
Delayed Gratification:
Traffic in Montreal aside, I must admit that this city gave me something I’ve been looking for five years. In 1998, for my birthday I received a large, Arc’teryx Theta AR. This jacket served me well until about last year when it finally decided to be less waterproof. No more treatment or proofer or whatever the kids at the pro shop try to sell you would help this thing out. The laminate is still good, the seams leak and the so do the pockets. But, it’s still a great shell.
In 2006, I decided I needed to start to look for a new jacket. I tend to take my time when researching when making decisions. The most significant barrier was finding the jacket with the right fit. Now trying to find Arc’teryx jackets in NS is next to impossible. The crew that carry the jackets don’t care about customer loyalty or what gear you’re going to buy over the next few years because they helped you along the way. In order to try jackets of different size and model one has to have the right timing. This was a problem for me at the time as I was working 7:30-5:30 most days and had periods where an entire season would pass without me knowing. And asking them to bring in a jacket was laughable. You would have to buy it first and deal with it.
I find this policy palatable for but a few items that they would never sell otherwise – an XXL leopard print Gore-Tex sock for instance – but for a common size and a jacket that flies off the shelf? Regardless, a few trips to Banff over the next few years yielded opportunity to sort out my options. Then next step was to find the jacket – a red, medium, Theta AR – on sale. Fast forward over several attempts at eBay and Kjiji and we end up at the Arc’teryx outlet in Montreal. Finally. Turns out the only one they have is a “defect” jacket. The “defect” in this jacket could not be found again – which is not surprising given the quality control standards at Arc’teryx (A Canadian company BTW). 40% off it is!
Traffic in Montreal aside, I must admit that this city gave me something I’ve been looking for five years. In 1998, for my birthday I received a large, Arc’teryx Theta AR. This jacket served me well until about last year when it finally decided to be less waterproof. No more treatment or proofer or whatever the kids at the pro shop try to sell you would help this thing out. The laminate is still good, the seams leak and the so do the pockets. But, it’s still a great shell.
In 2006, I decided I needed to start to look for a new jacket. I tend to take my time when researching when making decisions. The most significant barrier was finding the jacket with the right fit. Now trying to find Arc’teryx jackets in NS is next to impossible. The crew that carry the jackets don’t care about customer loyalty or what gear you’re going to buy over the next few years because they helped you along the way. In order to try jackets of different size and model one has to have the right timing. This was a problem for me at the time as I was working 7:30-5:30 most days and had periods where an entire season would pass without me knowing. And asking them to bring in a jacket was laughable. You would have to buy it first and deal with it.
I find this policy palatable for but a few items that they would never sell otherwise – an XXL leopard print Gore-Tex sock for instance – but for a common size and a jacket that flies off the shelf? Regardless, a few trips to Banff over the next few years yielded opportunity to sort out my options. Then next step was to find the jacket – a red, medium, Theta AR – on sale. Fast forward over several attempts at eBay and Kjiji and we end up at the Arc’teryx outlet in Montreal. Finally. Turns out the only one they have is a “defect” jacket. The “defect” in this jacket could not be found again – which is not surprising given the quality control standards at Arc’teryx (A Canadian company BTW). 40% off it is!
Side Note:
Over the next couple days we will be heading into wilderness territory where there may be no cell coverage (or 3G network!). If that’s the case, be patient. I’ll be writing but will post as soon as we come in range. Wish us luck and thanks for all the comments!
Day 3 & 4 - Destination: Montreal, QC 08/02/2011
Luxuries while camping include showering and coffee. With those standards in mind, we lived it up and enjoyed feeling fresh and drank our rationed portions of French press.
We outran the severe thunderstorm and hail as we sped toward Montreal. MONTREAL! It’s the city of funky fashion, fabulous food, and fast non-indicating cars – and I love it! After arriving and successfully driving us into the city without going off the wrong ramp – we checked into our lovely B&B downtown. I strongly believe that a GPS can save most marriages.
We took a walk down Rue Saint Catherine and were abruptly tagged it from that thunderstorm from which we had been running. We found ourselves in a downpour and sought refuge in a little microbrewery called Le 3 Brasseurs and waited the storm out.
For a late supper we had reserved supper at one of my fav restaurants. If you get the chance to enjoy Rue Saint-Denis, you’ll find a gem called L’Academie. Make reservations because it’s always blocked. There’s also no corking fee – and conveniently enough there’s a SAQ across the street where you can get your favorite wine to bring to supper at a fraction of the cost. Definitely a high five moment.
* * * * * *
Today we woke up to a breakfast basket of treats. We decided to go all in and go French with the croissants and coffee. I could see myself riding a Bixi bike rental and throwing my baguette and wine in the basket – however – keeping skinny like those beautiful Montreal femmes may require more bike riding than I have time for – and I don’t think I’ll be picking up smoking anytime soon.
I ventured off solo for most of midday. I trotted to where most of you will not be surprised – yup, that’s right – right back to the shopping Mecca of downtown. La Maison Simons never disappoints. After buying only what I knew could fit in our car for the rest of the trip, I sat back and relished in a crepe - all nutella, strawberry, and coconut goodness.
Now – this is the point where my little flip-flops decide to get misdirected. Some would say lost in Montreal would be a little nerve wracking. However, I knew the general direction I had to go – and with my scant map reading skills – I enjoyed what I would call “a nice long walk on a summer day” through areas I didn’t even know existed. Thankfully, I did purposely find my B&B ;)
Tonight is our last night here and the city has tired us out after being acclimatized to our cozy tents and boil ups. I’ve enjoyed my cultural getaway and am sure I will be savoring the memories as we head into the vast province of Ontario tomorrow. Yeah, it’s going to be a long trip!
We outran the severe thunderstorm and hail as we sped toward Montreal. MONTREAL! It’s the city of funky fashion, fabulous food, and fast non-indicating cars – and I love it! After arriving and successfully driving us into the city without going off the wrong ramp – we checked into our lovely B&B downtown. I strongly believe that a GPS can save most marriages.
We took a walk down Rue Saint Catherine and were abruptly tagged it from that thunderstorm from which we had been running. We found ourselves in a downpour and sought refuge in a little microbrewery called Le 3 Brasseurs and waited the storm out.
For a late supper we had reserved supper at one of my fav restaurants. If you get the chance to enjoy Rue Saint-Denis, you’ll find a gem called L’Academie. Make reservations because it’s always blocked. There’s also no corking fee – and conveniently enough there’s a SAQ across the street where you can get your favorite wine to bring to supper at a fraction of the cost. Definitely a high five moment.
* * * * * *
Today we woke up to a breakfast basket of treats. We decided to go all in and go French with the croissants and coffee. I could see myself riding a Bixi bike rental and throwing my baguette and wine in the basket – however – keeping skinny like those beautiful Montreal femmes may require more bike riding than I have time for – and I don’t think I’ll be picking up smoking anytime soon.
I ventured off solo for most of midday. I trotted to where most of you will not be surprised – yup, that’s right – right back to the shopping Mecca of downtown. La Maison Simons never disappoints. After buying only what I knew could fit in our car for the rest of the trip, I sat back and relished in a crepe - all nutella, strawberry, and coconut goodness.
Now – this is the point where my little flip-flops decide to get misdirected. Some would say lost in Montreal would be a little nerve wracking. However, I knew the general direction I had to go – and with my scant map reading skills – I enjoyed what I would call “a nice long walk on a summer day” through areas I didn’t even know existed. Thankfully, I did purposely find my B&B ;)
Tonight is our last night here and the city has tired us out after being acclimatized to our cozy tents and boil ups. I’ve enjoyed my cultural getaway and am sure I will be savoring the memories as we head into the vast province of Ontario tomorrow. Yeah, it’s going to be a long trip!
